Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Plastic naked bodies...

She said I would recognize the area by the mannequin shop. I must not have heard the plural because Lavalle between Puerreydon and Jean Jaures consists mostly of stores that sell, or factories that manufacture mannequins...mannequins in all shapes, sizes, colors (even bright yellow and red), families of mannequins, plus pregnant mannequins. I realize as I walk the streets near Abasto, the true home of Carlos Gardel, el moroccho, or the father of the tango, that I too am at home. Three years ago when I stopped for a week in Buenos Aires on my travels I stayed just a few blocks away for a week with an Uruguayan couple. What brought me back there today was the desire to be sure I was covering the highlights of Buenos Aires for the group here on retreat.

I am now the guide so I go back to what someone new to Buenos Aires would want to see. Since returning from Ushuaia a week ago I had settled into my routine. I work, attend spanish and salsa classes, study, exercise, write, and make time for a growing number of friends. Life has a way of taking on a certain rythym akin to one's personality. Mine requires both stimulation as well as alone time. But I have responsibility this week for a group of women and the highlights of Buenos Aires are a priority some of which I haven't visited this time around.

So what are the highlights from my perspective? When arriving on an international flight it is likely that one's feet touch the soil of South America sometime mid-morning. Arrival in this city at this hour is perfect for a capuccino at la Biela, the place to see and be seen in Recoleta. And on a Saturday the market adjacent to the cemetary is in full swing. Of course, a taste of the tango is a must. Luckily, a fabulous espectaculo, Tango a Tierra, is at Borges Centro Cultural. A great introduction to the Argentine energy. Followed by dinner at Milion around 10:30PM seals the welcome package.

No rest for the weary.... Sunday it is San Telmo. The Sunday market is a must see and the street entertainers engaging. Eat at Petanque and read the Spanish-French menu salivating over the options. Enroute to home stop at Confiteri Ideal for the Sunday milonga to watch the locals tango. It is clear there are regulars who love this dance. If you are barrio hopping which is a must in Buenos Aires the best way is to sample a coffee along the way. By now you've sampled La Biela in Recoleta and maybe Todo Mundo in San Telmo.

Monday it is truly the tourist thing sauntering down Florida and walking to Puerto Madero. Though it is expensive and in all the guide books, lunch at Cabana Las Lilas tops the list. Vidal Buzzi, equal to Zagat in the states, touts this place as one of the best and says that its quality is on the rise. So don't miss it. Take your time, sip some wine with a fabulous lunch. Then next place to hang for awhile is Plaza de Mayo, next to the Casa Rosada, and take in the demonstration of the day. Wander through Monseratt, view the historic sites, enroute to Cafe Tortoni, a landmark, for an ice cream or coffee. Though not at the top of my list for coffee, the ambience takes you back in time. Finish the day with jazz at Clasica Moderna on Callao. This Monday night was special. I chatted with the drummer's mother who gave me her email and phone number so I could learn as soon as their CD was cut. Nothing like a mom to truly be on top of the promotion!

Today I am off duty and the group is discovering the best of Buenos Aires on their own. After all some of the best adventures are serendipitious and on our own!