Gathering in Phoenix over the holidays is a wise idea. The sun is shining and I can still wear my Tevas. On the bus to pick up my car rental I struck up a conversation with the man to my left. "So where is home?" I say. "Well I have a house in Portland. I am heading to Tuscon and just came from Virginia. Before that I was in Australia and New Zealand. I am in the lumber business and looking for connections in Europe. The Euro is so strong that it is a great time for export." So how do I get so much information is such a short time? Maybe it is the therapist in me or just my curious nature but everyone has a story to tell and I want to hear it. Bottom line is he loves to travel so in just ten minutes we have connected, kindred spirits that we are.
I do love to travel. But I also know that if I am going to spend time with my people it just comes with the turf. So Shaun and I gathered in Phoenix with family here and I made my calls to those close at heart living or traveling in New York, Chicago, St. Joseph, Pennsylvania, California and Colorado.
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
The Dalmatian Coast and Dubrovnik...Wanderlust in Croatia Continued
Neither my imagination nor any picture in a travelogue matched the reality of the Dalmatian Coast. Most impressive was the drive along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik in Croatia and then through the checkpoint into Bosnia. It was difficult to fathom what this amazing area looked liked during the war. And once in Dubrovnik the reality of what these people experienced during the war began to sink in. Walking the wall around the old city it was evident the number of new roofs necessary to replace the devastated old structures. The war memorial honored those Croatians who lost lives during the siege by the Serbs. And pictures showed the rubble in the streets left by the bombs dropped on this city. The “Pearl of the Adriatic” belonged to the world and the world was outraged when Dubrovnik was under attack.
The owner of the sobe where I rented a room told me that she stayed through most of the war protecting her home and caring for her community but even she had to leave for a two month period during the most horrific times. I ask her how one heals from such pain and she tells me it has not been easy. She did not lose family but knows many who did and though she is able to host Serbs visiting Dubrovnik from Bosnia or Montenegro it is with a heavy heart. Perhaps with time she says, then stops mid sentence. I am sure she wonders if that is true.
It was a short trip this time and though there were moments along the way to pause and digest the experience it was on the flight home that I went back to that original question. So what does intrigue me so much about travel? Part of the draw is the human spirit. No matter where I travel I am reminded how similar we are as humans. It is no longer of interest to me to note the differences though those are visible. I am now more curious about our similarities. The underlying themes of love and fear drive so much of human behavior. The other piece is seeing more clearly who I am. Wherever I go I am always there and without the trappings of familiarity and routine the view is clearer. Some of those personality traits I like. Some I wish were different. But most have been with me a lifetime. When on the road my understanding of self is deepened and stretched by those I encounter. My hope is that I also touch those who share a moment in time with me.
The owner of the sobe where I rented a room told me that she stayed through most of the war protecting her home and caring for her community but even she had to leave for a two month period during the most horrific times. I ask her how one heals from such pain and she tells me it has not been easy. She did not lose family but knows many who did and though she is able to host Serbs visiting Dubrovnik from Bosnia or Montenegro it is with a heavy heart. Perhaps with time she says, then stops mid sentence. I am sure she wonders if that is true.
It was a short trip this time and though there were moments along the way to pause and digest the experience it was on the flight home that I went back to that original question. So what does intrigue me so much about travel? Part of the draw is the human spirit. No matter where I travel I am reminded how similar we are as humans. It is no longer of interest to me to note the differences though those are visible. I am now more curious about our similarities. The underlying themes of love and fear drive so much of human behavior. The other piece is seeing more clearly who I am. Wherever I go I am always there and without the trappings of familiarity and routine the view is clearer. Some of those personality traits I like. Some I wish were different. But most have been with me a lifetime. When on the road my understanding of self is deepened and stretched by those I encounter. My hope is that I also touch those who share a moment in time with me.
Zagreb...Wanderlust in Croatia Continued....
Of course, I walked the city and did the tourist thing of visiting the sights covered in the guidebooks but it is the life of the locals that intrigues me the most. So when I saw a sign for the Film Festival that very week I was all about it. Most films had English subtitles which opened options for me. The one from New Zealand, “Shark vs. Eagle”, captured my attention. Waiting at the student center to enter the theater I observed the crowd. I was certainly among the oldest and few that were speaking English. When the doors opened I wondered if I would live to tell of it. You hear about people being trampled in crowds. I could hear my friends saying at the memorial “She always loved movies!” Seriously, the shove was intense and lack of smooth system for collecting tickets was striking. Once in the very large theater the size of the crowd was even more noticeable as many began to find space to sit on the floor. The welcoming speech was in both English and Croatian. The director, Taika Waititi, introduced his film and excitement was palpable. The tender story explored the human challenge of relationship and the audience showed appreciation with rousing applause.
A few more attempts to immerse with the locals before departure was the requisite gym visit and riding the tram to a local shopping mall in the outlying areas. The further away from the tourist scene the more language became a challenge. At the gym had I been able to speak Croatian or German I could have negotiated the deal for a day pass with the woman who worked the front desk. But a trainer conversant in English wasn’t far away and the added benefit was his willingness to extend a complimentary pass. I notice how much I enjoyed not understanding a word that was spoken as I worked through my routine. I thought how much more interesting another’s conversation was when I don’t understand a word. The imagination has a way of weaving tales when the reality is likely much more mundane.
On the tram the ticket system baffled me and the driver could speak no English. But a young couple gave me the skinny; “Just shrug your shoulders”, they said, “and you can ride free. They go easy on foreigners.” The added plus is that I learned a bit more about Zagreb and Croatia from this engaging couple. As I head back to the city center on tram after perusing local shopping I think that shortly I will leave Zagreb for the Dalmatian Coast and feel excited about the thought of the warmer salt air that awaits me.
A few more attempts to immerse with the locals before departure was the requisite gym visit and riding the tram to a local shopping mall in the outlying areas. The further away from the tourist scene the more language became a challenge. At the gym had I been able to speak Croatian or German I could have negotiated the deal for a day pass with the woman who worked the front desk. But a trainer conversant in English wasn’t far away and the added benefit was his willingness to extend a complimentary pass. I notice how much I enjoyed not understanding a word that was spoken as I worked through my routine. I thought how much more interesting another’s conversation was when I don’t understand a word. The imagination has a way of weaving tales when the reality is likely much more mundane.
On the tram the ticket system baffled me and the driver could speak no English. But a young couple gave me the skinny; “Just shrug your shoulders”, they said, “and you can ride free. They go easy on foreigners.” The added plus is that I learned a bit more about Zagreb and Croatia from this engaging couple. As I head back to the city center on tram after perusing local shopping I think that shortly I will leave Zagreb for the Dalmatian Coast and feel excited about the thought of the warmer salt air that awaits me.
Wanderlust in Croatia
So you ask, “What is it that intrigues you so much about travel?” When at home and into my routine I do ponder this question and pose very intellectual responses. Then when I arrived in Zagreb after a day of boarding three planes to travel from Corfu I did wonder myself the wisdom of my wanderlust. But just a short time after walking the streets in the rain the following morning, I was reminded again of the excitement I feel when stimulated by unfamiliar sites and sounds.
Zagreb is energetic and very much how I pictured an Eastern European city. Somehow the dreary rainy day added to the scene rather than detracting. The maze of umbrellas moved as one covering for those in the streets. Women in stylish boots mixed with those in more traditional practical shoes were visible everywhere. I looked for words to capture my take on this city and found a few in the Lonely Planet guidebook. Lines that spoke my sentiments included, “a good deal of old-world graciousness and sober Austro-Hungarian buildings mark Zagreb.”
Though I wanted to stop and sip an espresso while digesting my surroundings I knew my time was short in Croatia and I had few plans in place for the week to come. Part of arriving without a plan is the process of checking my mood and what suits at the moment. Heading to the Dalmatian coast was a must but how and when was yet unanswered. My luck with trains when traveling is not the best so there was little surprise when I learned that the train tracks just happened to be under repair for the week of my intended travels. Long hours on the bus after long hours in planes did not suit. The decision to fly to Split was an easy one.
Standing at the counter of the travel agency I would have thought I had stepped back in time if it had not been for internet connections and questions about my mobile number. In less than an hour the itinerary was set. Fly to Split, overnight there with time to wander through Diocletian’s Palace, imposing Roman ruins that have been named a UNESCO site, then bus to Dubrovnik along the Dalmatian coast and through Bosnia. As I contemplated these plans I recalled seeing “Out of Sarajevo” and thought of the turmoil in this part of the world just 15 years ago. But the day was young and I had 24hours to discover the highpoints of Zagreb.
Zagreb is energetic and very much how I pictured an Eastern European city. Somehow the dreary rainy day added to the scene rather than detracting. The maze of umbrellas moved as one covering for those in the streets. Women in stylish boots mixed with those in more traditional practical shoes were visible everywhere. I looked for words to capture my take on this city and found a few in the Lonely Planet guidebook. Lines that spoke my sentiments included, “a good deal of old-world graciousness and sober Austro-Hungarian buildings mark Zagreb.”
Though I wanted to stop and sip an espresso while digesting my surroundings I knew my time was short in Croatia and I had few plans in place for the week to come. Part of arriving without a plan is the process of checking my mood and what suits at the moment. Heading to the Dalmatian coast was a must but how and when was yet unanswered. My luck with trains when traveling is not the best so there was little surprise when I learned that the train tracks just happened to be under repair for the week of my intended travels. Long hours on the bus after long hours in planes did not suit. The decision to fly to Split was an easy one.
Standing at the counter of the travel agency I would have thought I had stepped back in time if it had not been for internet connections and questions about my mobile number. In less than an hour the itinerary was set. Fly to Split, overnight there with time to wander through Diocletian’s Palace, imposing Roman ruins that have been named a UNESCO site, then bus to Dubrovnik along the Dalmatian coast and through Bosnia. As I contemplated these plans I recalled seeing “Out of Sarajevo” and thought of the turmoil in this part of the world just 15 years ago. But the day was young and I had 24hours to discover the highpoints of Zagreb.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
She said..."It is time for an update,girl!"
Yes, Dixie, I have been remiss. So where in the world have I been the past six plus months you may wonder. On a journey, as is usually the case. Mostly checking out my home town, Chicago, in gypsy fashion. Life has a way of coming full circle and my return to the windy city is part of this circle. It has been twenty five years since I lived here but I never stopped claiming it as home. When asked, "where are you from?" the answer never changed no matter where I lived. Yes, I am from Chicago. It is in my blood and these past few months have reminded me how much history is here for me. There is a certain energy in this city that has excitement and allure. I find myself smiling as I walk the streets and make eye contact with so many diverse faces. The richness draws me. But for those of you who know me you know that though I have a place to land I won't stay put for long nor will I leave St. Joe. I seem to do best when on an adventure and exploring possibility. And also for those who know me you know that Chicago was probably not the only site these feet set foot these past few months.
So where else in the world was Maureen? Of course, Denver, you know has become an extension of my neighborhood but Europe beckoned. So it was a week on catamaran leading a retreat on the Ionian Sea followed by a week solo exploring Croatia. When traveling on bus along the Dalmation coast I couldn't stop thinking about this area just fifteen years ago. At the border crossing in Bosnia my thoughts went to the movie "Out of Sarajevo". When in Dubrovnik staying at a women's house in the old city I asked for her story. Though all looked so beautiful the horror of the war remained in the hearts of those who lived through the devastation. Though my travels take me to different lands with different people I am no longer as drawn to the differences but more to our similiarities.... our common human struggle for connection and understanding along with the many barriers that seem to get in the way.
I won't leave you so long next time.....
So where else in the world was Maureen? Of course, Denver, you know has become an extension of my neighborhood but Europe beckoned. So it was a week on catamaran leading a retreat on the Ionian Sea followed by a week solo exploring Croatia. When traveling on bus along the Dalmation coast I couldn't stop thinking about this area just fifteen years ago. At the border crossing in Bosnia my thoughts went to the movie "Out of Sarajevo". When in Dubrovnik staying at a women's house in the old city I asked for her story. Though all looked so beautiful the horror of the war remained in the hearts of those who lived through the devastation. Though my travels take me to different lands with different people I am no longer as drawn to the differences but more to our similiarities.... our common human struggle for connection and understanding along with the many barriers that seem to get in the way.
I won't leave you so long next time.....
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