From Banana Leaves to Bags...Women Weavers in Anegundi

More Memories....

Memories....

TheStory of India as told by the Temples and Palaces...

The history of the country is visible in the architecture of the temples and palaces. As one travels south the expansion of Hindu empires as well as introduction of Islam and Christianity. Hinduism is practices by about 82% of the population in India. About 10% of South India's population is Muslim and 2.3% of the population is Christian with 75% living in South India. In Hampi in the state of Karanata the three main temples were constructed in the 15th and 16th centuries. Virupaksha temple is the oldest with the main gopuram built in 1442. The main shrine is dedicated to a form of Shiva. The Vittala temple boasts incredible sculptural work with outer musical pillars that reverberate when tapped. Also constructed during the Vijayagar empire was the Achutaraya Temple. Visible in the palace at Hampi is the movement toward Hindu Islamic style. For Hindus a temple is a map of the universe. At the center is an unadorned space, the garbhagriha (inner shrine) which provides the residence for the deity to whom the temple is dedicated. Above the shrine rises the structure known as the vinana in South India which is stepped with a solid dome. The gorporam is a soaring pyramidal gateway, visible in Hampi temples and typical of Dravidian style. The invasion of the Muslims brought the introduction of arched cloisters and domes. The most striking difference between Hinduism and Islam is religious imagery. Idolatry or portrayal of god is not seen in Islamic art.

In Mysore the Maharaja's palace is a spectacular example of IndoSaracenic architecture which his a merging of Hindu,Muslim, and Christian. This ornate palace is a combination of mirrors, gaudy colors, stained glass, wooden doors and mosaic floors. Inside the palace grounds is the Hindu temple, Sri Shweta Varanaswamy. The palace complex reflects the history of Mysore. The dynasty was founded in 1399. Until the mid-16th century its rulers, the Wodeyars, were in the service of the Vijayangar emperor. The Mysore rulers declared independence with the fall of Vijayangar in 1565. In the late 18th century Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan usurped the throne and ruled for a brief period of time. The Wodeyars continued to rule until independence in 1947. Then in 1956 the new state was formed. The first palace burnt down in 1897 and was rebuild in 1912. Another example of Hindu architecture in Mysore is the Chamundeswari temple located on Chamundi Hill. It is dominated by a towering seven-storey 40m high gopuram. Pilgrims climb 1000 plus steps to the top. Needless to say I did not make the pilgrimage this trip.

En route to Bangalore from Mysore in Srirangapatam is home to the twin tower mosque, Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple and Daria Daulat Bagh,all built by Tipu Sultan during the 18th century. Daria Daulat Bagh served as Tipu Sultan's summer home and not an inch of the interior was left unadorned. Though Muslim he led with the intent of inclusion and is portrayed as a leader who promoted social justice. The architecture of this incredible edifice demonstrates the influence of several religions and varied styles.

Madurai was an experience in and of itself but the Sri Meenakshi Templemade this city especially memorable. It is one of India's oldest cities and has been a pilgrimage site for centuries. It is wild, congested and colorful. The streets are full with locals walking, those visiting the temple for pilgrimage, bicycles, cars, autorickshaws and bullock carts. All were fairly politely making their way as horns blared. Madurai's landmark temple is as riotous as the streets. It is a baroque example of Dravidian architecture with multi colored images of gods, goddesses, animals and mythical figures. It was designed in 1560 and built during the reign of Tirumalai Nayak. Every twelve years the city of Madurai paints and refurbishes the complex. Most of the gorpurams were covered for the scheduled painting because it is believed that the temple should not be exposed for view during painting. This actually added to the commotion in the temple. It is estimated that 10,000 visitors may come to Sri Meenakshi in any one day. Hindus arrived in large groups, small families, or individuals. Women wore saris or churidars and men wore longhis or typical western wear. Some of the children had their heads shaved signifying acceptance of Hinduism... a rite of passage. All were barefoot. Many pilgrims carried baskets of fruit and jasmine flowers to offer the gods. Breaking the coconut upon entering the temple is a ritual to determine one's fortune to come. Very few non-Hindus were present but those of us who were noticeable were welcomed. It was not uncommon to be asked to pose for a photo shoot since a white woman was a bit of an oddity.

The last temple on this trip at Tiruchirappeli was an outstanding culmination of temple touring. Sri Ranganathaswamy templededicated to Vishnu covers 60 hectares. Temple inscriptions date its existence from the 10th century. The complex with its seven concentric walled sections and 21 gorpurams is possibly the largest in India. When stateside the pictures posted will tell the story the words can't.

The trip is nearing an end. The last stop, Puducherry, was temple touring free but not because there were none to see. It was time to take in other sites: the Bay of Bengal, wide streets with French names, i.e. Rue du...., the promenade, the Ashram of Sri Auribondo, and Auroville which was the brainchild of the Mother. Of course it was also time to eat. This city's lure was fresh fish and French-Indian fusion cuisine. More later....

More Reflections from Puducherry on International Women's Day!

Recently on the flight from Bangalore to Chennai the movement of men was most notable. It was truly a business flight. Security has a que for Gents" and a que for "Ladies". Since they "wand" everyone this is most efficient. (Security has been intensified since the bombings in Mumbai. Our car was often checked when entering a hotel.) So the Security line moved quickly for me since I was one of the few women. But true testimony to the nature of this flight was the que at the men's room at baggage claim in Chennai. It was the first time in my life that I saw no line for the "ladies" room and a long line of men having to wait their turn. Sometimes there is justice in the world!

But of even greater significance to me on board Jet Airways was the March copy of Jet Wings. The lead article was "Celebrating Womanhood". In commemoration to International Women's Day the author interviewed several prominent women about the status of women in India and personal struggles. Shabana Azmi, Actor/Activist/Member of Parliament states "India lives in several centuries simultaneously and captures all the contradictions of a multi-cultural , multi-religious, multi-class society. So it is with the position of women." Dr. Mallika Sarabhai, Danseuse/ Thespian/ Writer states, "In some senses gender inequalities are coming down. In others, however, just as the gap between the rich and the poor is increasingly widening thanks to globalisation, the one between women in general is also increasing. Today we have a mixed bag of advantages and disadvantages. Many parts of the world are becoming more patriarchal and violent in the name of religion, and more and more women are being brutalised. If you are in an educated and progressive family today, the choices are sky-high. If not, you bear the double burden of being a working woman from a family which expects you to do all the traditionally prescribed jobs. That can be crippling and totally non-liberating."

Mahatma Gandhi stated, "If by strength is meant moral power, then woman is immeasurably man's superior...If non-violence is the law of our being, the future is with women..."

South Indian women have traditionally had a greater degree of freedom than their northern sisters. Kerala has been famous for its matrilineal kinship and matriarchy was a long standing tradition in Tamil Nadu. Dowry deaths and female infanticide were virtually unknown in South India until recently. In all of India according to reports, every six hours a married woman is beaten or burnt to death or emotionally harassed to the point of suicide. In October of 2006, the Indian Parliament, due to an active campaign for women's civil rights, passed a bill that gives women who are suffering domestic violence increased protection. However, again this is advantage of class. In low income families, girls can be regarded as a liability. But even for the middle class urban woman if she fails to fit in with the in-laws or produce a grandson the consequences can be dire, including bride burning. It may take the form of dousing fuel or scalding with boiling water that causes disfigurement or death. It is claimed that for every reported case of bride burning around 250 go unreported, and that less than 10% of the reported cases are pursued through the legal system.

The message is that though there have been gains made we have a long way to go. And acknowledging women on IWD remains of extreme importance.

Learning the Language: Are You Kidding???? Reflections in Puducherry...

"Arun, did you speak to him in Hindi?" I ask our driver in Madurai. "No", he says "They speak Tamil here." "And when we were in Mysore did you speak Hindi or Tamil there?" I ask again. "No", Arun says "I spoke Kannada there. In Karnataka we speak Kannada." "So when I was in Hyderabad before I met you were they speaking Hindi there?" "No" Arun states. "Hyderabad is in Andra Pradesh and there they speak Telegu." I am thinking so what if the folks in Illinois spoke Illegu and the folks in Michigan spoke Magoo. How would we communicate are my thoughts. So I say... "But Arun, how do you speak to each other?" "Kannada is similar to Tamil" he says. "Actually all three languages are Dravidian." "Dravidian?" I ask.

So here's the scoop...there is no one Indian language as such. The constitution recognises 18 different languages including English. The non-English languages fall into 2 groups, Indic and Dravidian. There are also over 1600 minor languages and dialects. Efforts have been made to promote Hindi as the official language of India and to gradually phase out English. Hindi is the predominant language of the north but it bears no relation to the Dravidian languages of the south; so very few people in the south speak Hindi. Resistance to change has been strongest in Tamil Nadu.

"I ask directions," Arun says "because I can't read the street signs." "You can't read?" I ask. "I can read" he says "but I can't read Tamil." (Tamil has it's own alphabetic script.) "The street signs are all in Tamil and none offer an English translation."

Yes, English is widely spoken but as the trip has progressed there have been many more instances when I have not been able to make myself understood. This morning while walking someone attempted to speak to me in French. Puducherry in Tamil Nadu was formerly a French colony so here they speak Tamil and French with some English. It is comforting to know that even Arun struggles at times. As if communication wasn't difficult enough even when speaking the same language!

From Mysore to Bangalore...sounds catchy!

I left you eating and given the delicacies of the recent two nights in Bangalore it seems the place to start. The odds were again in my favor as we deliberated restaurant choices in Bangalore. Four "pure" vegetarians and one carnivore considered the options and the carnivore in need of a "chicken fix" won. But the restaurant of choice was so good we opted to repeat the experience the second night. This place was a vibrant North Indian delight. Punjabi music with a beat played in the background and the energy was palpable. The crowd was young at our table and throughout the restaurant. The starters included a spicy, grilled panneer with a fabulous mint chutney sauce. The garlic and butter naan were to die for. Plus a myriad of entrees including aloo (potato), dhal (curried lentil dish), gobi (cauliflower), mattar (peas), and many other sabzi (vegetables) .... everything spicy, everything vegetarian! What more could one want... I will tell you what! Indian ice cream on a bed of chopped carrots that have been treated with sugar and curdled milk or beetle leaves stuffed with a sweet and wrapped in silver butter paper that looks like aluminum foil but melts in your mouth. Incredible! Lest you think that all I am doing is eating I will tell of the sights of Mysore and Bangalore.

One highlight from Mysore that still falls in the category of food fetishes are the Mysore Masala Dosas. I was on a mission and had the driver searching at lunchtime for a Dosa though typically served for breakfast or a snack. Success at last... we found a very "strictly Indian"place that served up 3 mouth watering Masala Dosas famous in Mysore with chutney for a total of 60 rupees or $1.20. Oh my...am I going to gain weight this trip or what!

Though there are temples and palaces that deserve a blog entry and will receive their due in a future summary of the temple/palace section it is the experience of the markets that continue to linger in my memory. The colors, smells and sounds were captivating!! Fresh vegetables, fruits, flowers and incense were everywhere. Meat of any kind was noticeably absent since so many markets I have seen throughout the world boasted slabs of beef hanging in the heat. Also noticeably absent were tourists. Either it is the off season or these markets truly draw only Indians. The people were excited by our presence and welcomed pictures with no request for baksheesh (tip,donation). Truly the wish was just to be photographed and see themselves on the screen. By the time I walked out of the market in Bangalore I had flowers in my hair and around my neck, a mark of red dye on my forehead, and my picture with a myriad of Bangaloreans! Wearing my Salwar Kameez, my skin color was the only dead give-away of my non-local status. Babagi in Mysore made it a point of leading us to his many "brothers" stalls, one of whom made Jasmine incense. The smell was intoxicating and the process was interesting to watch. But nothing quite amazed me as much as watching the men carrying huge baskets of bananas to market....balanced on their heads they moved rapidly through the crowd to empty their load and return to the trucks for another...oh to have that balance!

You will have to create the image of these scenes until I can download some shots for your review. Now in Madurai I am off to another market, a temple and a palace before my next curry!

Eat, Pray, Love or Eating and Drinking my way through India...

Now I know Elizabeth Gilbert ate through Italy, prayed through India and loved through Bali. I am however eating my way through India! And as always culture is key. At home swirling the wine, smelling the bouquet, tasting the tannins, fruits, spices and varied flavors to the wines is a ritual very familiar to me. I nod approval. Here the nod of approval means I have touched the bottle and am satisfied that the liter of water I have just ordered is cold! Though I have not tried this I suppose if it was not to my liking I could send it back and repeat the ritual. Wind is secondary here. Though the development of wine is on the rise one is excited to find a South African Pinotage on the menu. I have been drinking more beer this last week than in the last several years! But the food is another story...

I am already aware that shortly I will be experiencing serious withdrawal from these sumptuous meals when I return to the West. As a vegetarian I am in heaven in South India. Tami Nadu (where I am headed) and Karnataka (where I am at present) are predominantly vegetarian. This is very exciting for me. For once I am in the majority. I spend so much of my life being in the minority that is as if I am home. Menu sections here clearly delineate non-vegetarian items as if those folks are the strange ones!

So it is Dosas for breakfast. Thali for lunch. Samosas brought by Sami for the train ride or a snack and a myriad of wonderful curries for dinner. But let's start with the Dosa, a large crepe like mixture of fermented rice flour and dhal (lentil dish) cooked on a griddle then stuffed with spiced potatoes, onions and curry leaves. This also works well mid-day for a snack. Also I am told that idlis, vada (deep-fired doughnuts made of lentils, or uttapans (thick rice flour pancakes with chopped onions, green chilies, coriander and coconut) are wonderful and make a good breakfast.

The Thali is the lunchtime meal of choice. In the south a typical Thali is served on a flat steel plate covered with a banana leaf topped with a mound of rice. Around the rice are servings of dhal, sambar (soupy lentils), mixed veggies, chutneys, pickles and dahi (curd/yoghurt). Eating Thali requires skill. Using the fingers of your right hand start by mixing the various side dishes with the rice, kneading and scraping it into mouth-sized balls, then scoop it into your mouth using your thumb to push the food in the mouth. It is considered bad form to stick your right hand into your mouth or lick your fingers so finger bowls of water are provided.

More on the samosa saga and dinner delights will be provided in a future entry. I am hungry just telling of this eating adventure and am off to breakfast before heading to Bangalore.

Memories of Hampi, Lakshmi

Hampi is a World Heritage site. The ruins of the 15th century city of Vijayanagar are located near the village. The area is surrounded by giant granite boulders, lush rice paddies and banana plantations. According to Hindu legends of Ramayana this area was Kishkinda, the realm of the monkey gods. In 1336 the Telugu princes of Harihara and Bukka founded the city of Vijayanagar which grew into one of the largest Hindu empires in India history. In the 16th century the metropolitan area covered 650 sq.km. and had a population of 500,000. The busy bazaars were centers of international commerce.

The focal point of the Hampi Bazaar is the Virupaksha temple with beginning construction dating back to 1442. The highlight here was meeting Lakshmi. For a small donation Lakshmi will bless you. And this blessing is a photo op for sure! Since my photographer was slow to shoot the first time around I paid to be blessed twice. For those of you who know me well you are probably thinking that was a good idea and well worth the money. The trick is to place your contribution in Lakshmi's trunk. Once she has passed the loot to her attendant she is free to place her massive trunk on your head. Lakshmi, the elephant, and I bonded since her trunk and my head met twice!

The more magnificent of the Hampi ruins is the Vittala Temple built during the 16th century and the reign of Krishnadevaraya. Though it was never completed nor consecrated it marks the pinnacle of the Vijayanagar art. En route to this temple it is also possible to see the Achyutaraya Temple and the now deserted Sule Bazaar. My favorite area though was the Royal Center. Located in that area is where Lakshmi may have made her home had she lived during that time. The elephant stables were in the compound of of the Royal Center as well as Lotus Mahal, an amazing synthesis of Hindu and Islamic styles. Vijayanagar under Hindu reign saw its demise during the 16th century with the arrival of the Islamic sultanates. The structure reveals the merging of the two cultures.

Not far from Hampi is the lovely little village of Anegudi, older structures than those of Hampi. Here the Kishkinda Trust runs programs and builds businnes opportunities that benefit both the local community and help preserve the village's heritage. One project we visited created in 1997 was the cottage industry of crafts using locally produced cloth, bana fibers and river grasses. It now employs 500 women and the beautiful crafts are sold all over India. Watching the women work at this factory was a treat.

As I write this in Mysore Hampi is already 10 hours away by car. Yesterdays journey was long but interesting. Many small towns and long stretches of open space were a surprise after the mor densely populated cities. The roads were good. The sites were interesting. And thankfully the challenge of finding a bathroom and restaurant though not easy was not daunting. I suppose I should dedicate an entry to the art of using an Asian toilet. Maybe another day. Now it is off to breakfast....perhaps a masala dosa! More on this later as well.

On the road...

"You did not know you had air-conditioning?" he asks as he checks the power in the room. You see power outages are regular occurances across the river from Hampi and there is no electricity from midnight til 6:00AM. But never fear the Mowgli Guest House is equipted with a generator. Now sheets for the bed or toilet paper they may miss on check-in but rest assured there is air-conditioning and high speed internet. The contradictions in India are comical for the westerner but all is well when on the road and staying in the moment. Plus the ambience of the room at the Guest House makes up for any minor snafus. The balcony overlooks a rice paddy and palm trees. With a western view it is possible to watch the sunset while listening to the cacophony of frogs and what I swear are crickets in the background. It is a haven from the road.

The road.... though I had hoped to get to the historical importance of the temples in Hampi and the Indo-Islamic influence, that will have to wait til tomorrow or the next day. But the road must come to life in this entry. Though I have experienced many hair-raising rides throughout the world it is fair to say that India tops the list of places I would never want to drive. Somehow our driver seems to navigate between tuk-tuks, bicycles, goats, women walking with cans or baskets on their heads, lines of trucks transporting iron ore, and children relieving themselves on the side of the road. Within inches of others sharing the small road we make our way south through India and tour the areas we are stopping. When I speak to you next I promise a bit of history that will lend some understanding to this vibrant land.

The call to prayer and train travel to the countryside.....

Yesterday morning I awoke to the call to prayer in the distance. Hyderabad is a mix of Muslim, Hindu, Buddist and Christian; more diverse than most areas of India, I am told. This makes for interesting sites in the streets and an assortment of local garb. The women manage to look beautiful to me even if fully covered. The Muslim women though in black may be trimmed in colorful jewels and wearing high-heeled shoes that still draw attention. The Hindu women covered in colorful saris may have Henna feet the color of the dress. And shopping for a sari makes one understand the enchantment of this garb. The colors, designs, and textures of fabric are alluring. Though no purchase yet you may see me at the next event in full regalia. The remaining wear Salwar Kameez, long shirts, loose pants and some even in jeans. Most men in the city are dressed more in western wear but a few don longhis.

The languages in the background also add to the diversity. The people of Hyderabad speak Telegu, Urdu, Hindi and English and seem to choose one or the other depending on religion and the situation. Each state has its own language. At this early stage of my travels in India it is still a mystery to me how much there is commonality in communication. When trying to find the exit to Golconda Fort Monday English did not serve me well. Hindi seemed to be the language of choice for several that were queried before a young man responded to my confused look and question. As we travel south and into the country side the languages will change, Hindi will still be more a common denominator but one still travels with ease so far relying only on English.

This leg of the journey includes overnight train travel to Hospet and a drive to Hampi. The story of Hampi will follow in future entries but arrival to this lush rice growing area was promising. As not unexpected the train was almost two hours late departing from Hyderabad. Though due to leave at 9:15PM we did not pulll out of the station until 11:00PM. Many would say "that's India", but quite frankly it is not a big surprise to be that delayed from St. Joe to Chicago on the Amtrak. I suppose one might then say "that's Amtrak." The train has a culture of its own with varied means of travel from first class sleeper car to coach accomodations with no air. We traveled second class, air conditioned, sleeper coach and made our bunk beds as soon as sheets were distributed. Quite frankly I slept like a baby from 12:00 midnight until 6:00AM and if there was noise in the background my family knows I am not a stranger to snoring. Years of this stemming to family of origin just means I see the night time noises of others as white noise. That is probably the case when others are speaking another language as well. I have no clue what I am missing! Once awake in the morning the men pulled out there thermoses of chai and the serious discussion began. It would be fun to see the train come to life but the stop for Hospet was soon.

Sites and sounds of Hampi await tomorrow.....

And the Oscar goes to "Slumdog Millionaire"

It is 10:30AM Monday in Hyderabad and the Academy is honoring India with a multitude of Awards. If it weren't for the commercials in Hindi and the time zone I might have to pinch myself to realize that I am in India. After a long flight to Delhi, an eight hour layover at the Radisson near the airport, Sami greeted us Sunday morning in Hyderabad. Traveling via air to India is a joy for a vegetarian. The vegetarian option for entrees on board is standard fare. And from Delhi to Hyderabad the attendant asks if I prefer vegetarian from the North or South of India. Are you kidding me? The last time I flew from Chicago to Denver they didn't even have peanuts!

It is hard to know where to start and capture what I have registered so far. The smiles and warmth of the people for sure is at the top of my list. The varied dress that I see...turbans, saris, salwar kameez, full black cover or blue jeans. Certainly the sun and warmth of the air is so welcome. Most exciting has been seeing Angie again and being reminded of our first meeting aboard the freighter heading to Patagonia in Chile. Angie and her partner, Ash are here in India for at least a year working in the IT industry. After seven months here they have settled in and we benefit from their knowledge of this wonderful land. Our first day was the spiritual and sensual experience of the Spa followed by hours of eating some of the best of what Hyderabad has to offer at a lush buffet spread in the ISTA hotel. And lastly I will relish the bed awaiting in Angie and Ash's place. After hours on the road one appreciates those simple things in life!

Namaste...

Perhaps you can tell by the title where I am headed. You got it....India! The visit will be to the south so in addition to securing visa and inoculations, borrowing a couple of Salwar Kameez, I have begun popping malaria pills. It is a bit surreal this morning. Since I left you last March I have been on a different kind of adventure...settling in Chicago. Life has come full circle. I am back in my city of birth reconnecting with friends and old stomping grounds. Though work still takes me back to St. Joseph weekly more of my time is spent in Chicago also working and living the life of the "urbanite" I am at heart. The surreal part is that I am looking at the lake and Outer Drive from the window of my 20th floor condo. Smoke streams from the chimneys of condos that surround me. It looks cold and the forecast is for 6-8 inches of snow. With this as the backdrop I am packing only carry on luggage with very light weight clothing because I am heading to temperatures in the high 90's!

This is one of those stories of what happens on the road with that community of wanderers. In 2004 when traveling south in Chile aboard a freighter heading into Patagonia I met Angie and others from around the world. The varied travelers were heading either to Torres del Paine or Ushuaia. We slept dormitory style, ate cafeteria style and spoke to one another in many different languages. After four days on a freighter one makes friends. Angie became a friend. She was from Great Britain and was/is an avid traveler. In 2006 when I was in Buenos Aires we dined together before and after her trip to Antarctica. Then we remained in each others database and periodic updates on life's travels. Last fall her email came from Hyderabad where she and her partner would be based for a year working in information technology. "Come visit" she said. Need I day more! Then when David, my techy partner, signed up for the trip we were India bound. The past month has been a whirlwind of preparing. Soon I will be on the road with 3 technology whizzes. "Me"... heading to the heart of technology with those in the know...."who would have thought!" Life has a way of taking you places!

So picture #1 ... Angie writes...."Sami will pick you up at the airport!".