Monday, March 10, 2008
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Down to the wire with Delta!
"Yes, you are on the priority wait list for the 8th, 9th, and 11th but it doesn't look good. The flights are oversold." "Could I fly out of Bogota if I go there?" "Well no, because that would require less miles and you cannot switch categories of miles with a frequent flyer ticket." "Is there another city that is in the same category, like Rio, Sao Paolo, or Santiago?" "Yes, but there are no seats available out of any of those cities in business class." "Could I fly economy?" "No, you can't move into another class seat even though it would require less miles." "So how do I get home?" "You could always buy a ticket." This is the great puzzle as I say good-bye. I probably won't get a seat with my frequent flyer ticket but I can buy a ticket for a flight that is "sobre vendido" (over sold). Go figure! So I am doing the dance with Delta and going with the flow confident that somehow I will be in the states by the 12th. Last night I received a text message from Stan (now a friend who lives here and moved last year from Chicago). He was in the red carpet room sipping vodka and letting me know his flight scheduled for 10:30PM wasn't due to depart until 5:00AM the next morning. Hope he took it easy on the vodka! So the travel travails begin....More later.
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Colonia, Uruguay
These are just a few shots of this quiet colonial
city across the river from mi querida Buenos Aires! Many Argentines head this way for the day for R&R!
The Week in Review....
I am convinced the ability to connect is directly proportional to the ability to say good-bye. So what do I mean by that and why now do I process this human condition? The retreat has ended. All have returned to the states and I am reviewing the richness of the experience. Intimacy is scary and depending on another takes courage. In a foreign land with a group the intensity of this phenomenon is exacerbated. This group was smooth and the connections were fluid. So much of what I see in relationships is the dance of assessing trust. Is this person someone who will have my back? And the other side is will this person give me space? If both parts of the equation balance it works. The bottom line though is that we still have to say good-bye. Nothing lasts. It is a given there will be sadness in the ending. I remember the movie "The gods must be crazy" when the African said good-bye to the Brits it was simple....."we go together and now we stop." So at the end of a rich week I say the same.
But back to the highlights of Buenos Aires because I left you on Tuesday in the midst of indiviual exploration. On Wednesday we were moving as a group again and heading to Palermo. For me a walk on Libertador to Alcorta through the area of embassies and culminating at Parque Tres de Febrero is a must. The buildings and streets of this area are beautiful and the park is a welcome respite from the busyness of the city. This is the new Palermo. The happening place is Palermo Viejo divided into Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. Pangs of hunger after the long walk took us to Osaka in Palermo Hollywood, one of my favorites. The ambience is enchanting and the flavors are sumptuous. Once revitalized a walk through Palermo Soho to the Botanic Gardens is a great way to see the area. For cat lovers the garden is a must! Not far from the gardens is the Museo de Eva Peron. If you want to learn more about this very powerful woman end the day here. An evening at the movies was a good finale. The group was heading to Colonia the next day so an early night was in order. If you haven't seen "Away from Her"...do!
Colonia, Uruaguay is a UNESCO site an hour trip on the buquebus from Buenos Aires. The museums capture the history of Uruguay which the Spaniards and Portugues fought over for about 70 years. The Spanish wone but the mix of both cultures with the Indigenous is visible in the history preserved in this small city. Since I have been there twice this was another day of separation. After the quiet of Colonia the music and dance were calling. This has become one of my favorite haunts this trip so we met in Monserat after the buquebus returned. And with the plus of a great mojito we danced the Son, the origin of salsa.
It is Friday and the retreat is ending but not without a walk to Abasto which I mentioned previously followed by a cab ride to La Boca. This was a long cab ride and somewhat like a tour. We traveled through Once, a barrio that is touted as the most dangerous. When I first visited Buenos Aires and lived in Almagro my host family was adamant that I had to go in colectivo or train to class because a walk would require passing through Once. Then in the years to follow though I lived in Recoleta if there was a destination that would take me close to Once the warning was repeated by many. So traveling through Once for me was traveling to the forbidden. La Boca is important for its history as the port of entry. The Museo de Bellas Artes there and the work of Benito Quinquela Martin is worth the trip. His art is powerful. The few blocks of painted buildings and artisans in La Boca is a bit of a carnival. If you dine even a couple of blocks away from this very small center you will be warned to go in taxi to the center. We walked... women armed with umbrellas!
There are many serendipitous experiences that take place in the midst of seeing the highlights and if you go with the attitude that all is changeable within the general outline you can say you have seen much in a week. For most though the pangs of saying goodbye are strong! There is just something about this city!
But back to the highlights of Buenos Aires because I left you on Tuesday in the midst of indiviual exploration. On Wednesday we were moving as a group again and heading to Palermo. For me a walk on Libertador to Alcorta through the area of embassies and culminating at Parque Tres de Febrero is a must. The buildings and streets of this area are beautiful and the park is a welcome respite from the busyness of the city. This is the new Palermo. The happening place is Palermo Viejo divided into Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. Pangs of hunger after the long walk took us to Osaka in Palermo Hollywood, one of my favorites. The ambience is enchanting and the flavors are sumptuous. Once revitalized a walk through Palermo Soho to the Botanic Gardens is a great way to see the area. For cat lovers the garden is a must! Not far from the gardens is the Museo de Eva Peron. If you want to learn more about this very powerful woman end the day here. An evening at the movies was a good finale. The group was heading to Colonia the next day so an early night was in order. If you haven't seen "Away from Her"...do!
Colonia, Uruaguay is a UNESCO site an hour trip on the buquebus from Buenos Aires. The museums capture the history of Uruguay which the Spaniards and Portugues fought over for about 70 years. The Spanish wone but the mix of both cultures with the Indigenous is visible in the history preserved in this small city. Since I have been there twice this was another day of separation. After the quiet of Colonia the music and dance were calling. This has become one of my favorite haunts this trip so we met in Monserat after the buquebus returned. And with the plus of a great mojito we danced the Son, the origin of salsa.
It is Friday and the retreat is ending but not without a walk to Abasto which I mentioned previously followed by a cab ride to La Boca. This was a long cab ride and somewhat like a tour. We traveled through Once, a barrio that is touted as the most dangerous. When I first visited Buenos Aires and lived in Almagro my host family was adamant that I had to go in colectivo or train to class because a walk would require passing through Once. Then in the years to follow though I lived in Recoleta if there was a destination that would take me close to Once the warning was repeated by many. So traveling through Once for me was traveling to the forbidden. La Boca is important for its history as the port of entry. The Museo de Bellas Artes there and the work of Benito Quinquela Martin is worth the trip. His art is powerful. The few blocks of painted buildings and artisans in La Boca is a bit of a carnival. If you dine even a couple of blocks away from this very small center you will be warned to go in taxi to the center. We walked... women armed with umbrellas!
There are many serendipitous experiences that take place in the midst of seeing the highlights and if you go with the attitude that all is changeable within the general outline you can say you have seen much in a week. For most though the pangs of saying goodbye are strong! There is just something about this city!
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Plastic naked bodies...
She said I would recognize the area by the mannequin shop. I must not have heard the plural because Lavalle between Puerreydon and Jean Jaures consists mostly of stores that sell, or factories that manufacture mannequins...mannequins in all shapes, sizes, colors (even bright yellow and red), families of mannequins, plus pregnant mannequins. I realize as I walk the streets near Abasto, the true home of Carlos Gardel, el moroccho, or the father of the tango, that I too am at home. Three years ago when I stopped for a week in Buenos Aires on my travels I stayed just a few blocks away for a week with an Uruguayan couple. What brought me back there today was the desire to be sure I was covering the highlights of Buenos Aires for the group here on retreat.
I am now the guide so I go back to what someone new to Buenos Aires would want to see. Since returning from Ushuaia a week ago I had settled into my routine. I work, attend spanish and salsa classes, study, exercise, write, and make time for a growing number of friends. Life has a way of taking on a certain rythym akin to one's personality. Mine requires both stimulation as well as alone time. But I have responsibility this week for a group of women and the highlights of Buenos Aires are a priority some of which I haven't visited this time around.
So what are the highlights from my perspective? When arriving on an international flight it is likely that one's feet touch the soil of South America sometime mid-morning. Arrival in this city at this hour is perfect for a capuccino at la Biela, the place to see and be seen in Recoleta. And on a Saturday the market adjacent to the cemetary is in full swing. Of course, a taste of the tango is a must. Luckily, a fabulous espectaculo, Tango a Tierra, is at Borges Centro Cultural. A great introduction to the Argentine energy. Followed by dinner at Milion around 10:30PM seals the welcome package.
No rest for the weary.... Sunday it is San Telmo. The Sunday market is a must see and the street entertainers engaging. Eat at Petanque and read the Spanish-French menu salivating over the options. Enroute to home stop at Confiteri Ideal for the Sunday milonga to watch the locals tango. It is clear there are regulars who love this dance. If you are barrio hopping which is a must in Buenos Aires the best way is to sample a coffee along the way. By now you've sampled La Biela in Recoleta and maybe Todo Mundo in San Telmo.
Monday it is truly the tourist thing sauntering down Florida and walking to Puerto Madero. Though it is expensive and in all the guide books, lunch at Cabana Las Lilas tops the list. Vidal Buzzi, equal to Zagat in the states, touts this place as one of the best and says that its quality is on the rise. So don't miss it. Take your time, sip some wine with a fabulous lunch. Then next place to hang for awhile is Plaza de Mayo, next to the Casa Rosada, and take in the demonstration of the day. Wander through Monseratt, view the historic sites, enroute to Cafe Tortoni, a landmark, for an ice cream or coffee. Though not at the top of my list for coffee, the ambience takes you back in time. Finish the day with jazz at Clasica Moderna on Callao. This Monday night was special. I chatted with the drummer's mother who gave me her email and phone number so I could learn as soon as their CD was cut. Nothing like a mom to truly be on top of the promotion!
Today I am off duty and the group is discovering the best of Buenos Aires on their own. After all some of the best adventures are serendipitious and on our own!
I am now the guide so I go back to what someone new to Buenos Aires would want to see. Since returning from Ushuaia a week ago I had settled into my routine. I work, attend spanish and salsa classes, study, exercise, write, and make time for a growing number of friends. Life has a way of taking on a certain rythym akin to one's personality. Mine requires both stimulation as well as alone time. But I have responsibility this week for a group of women and the highlights of Buenos Aires are a priority some of which I haven't visited this time around.
So what are the highlights from my perspective? When arriving on an international flight it is likely that one's feet touch the soil of South America sometime mid-morning. Arrival in this city at this hour is perfect for a capuccino at la Biela, the place to see and be seen in Recoleta. And on a Saturday the market adjacent to the cemetary is in full swing. Of course, a taste of the tango is a must. Luckily, a fabulous espectaculo, Tango a Tierra, is at Borges Centro Cultural. A great introduction to the Argentine energy. Followed by dinner at Milion around 10:30PM seals the welcome package.
No rest for the weary.... Sunday it is San Telmo. The Sunday market is a must see and the street entertainers engaging. Eat at Petanque and read the Spanish-French menu salivating over the options. Enroute to home stop at Confiteri Ideal for the Sunday milonga to watch the locals tango. It is clear there are regulars who love this dance. If you are barrio hopping which is a must in Buenos Aires the best way is to sample a coffee along the way. By now you've sampled La Biela in Recoleta and maybe Todo Mundo in San Telmo.
Monday it is truly the tourist thing sauntering down Florida and walking to Puerto Madero. Though it is expensive and in all the guide books, lunch at Cabana Las Lilas tops the list. Vidal Buzzi, equal to Zagat in the states, touts this place as one of the best and says that its quality is on the rise. So don't miss it. Take your time, sip some wine with a fabulous lunch. Then next place to hang for awhile is Plaza de Mayo, next to the Casa Rosada, and take in the demonstration of the day. Wander through Monseratt, view the historic sites, enroute to Cafe Tortoni, a landmark, for an ice cream or coffee. Though not at the top of my list for coffee, the ambience takes you back in time. Finish the day with jazz at Clasica Moderna on Callao. This Monday night was special. I chatted with the drummer's mother who gave me her email and phone number so I could learn as soon as their CD was cut. Nothing like a mom to truly be on top of the promotion!
Today I am off duty and the group is discovering the best of Buenos Aires on their own. After all some of the best adventures are serendipitious and on our own!
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Ahora hablaste...dijo Facundo!
Facundo, my favorite spinning instructor is back after almost 10 days. "Te extrania", (I missed you), I say. A donde estuviste? (Where where you?) "Al sur, Bariloche, Calafate, Ushuaia, " he says. "No me digas, cuando saliste de Ushuaia?" (You're kidding me, I say, when did you leave Ushuaia?) Anoche a las 9! Verdad, estuvimos en el aeropuerto al mismo tiempo! No way, we were in the airport together. (There were two planes leaving at the same time.) Ahora hablaste....Now you tell me he says. It is moments like these when I know that Buenos Aires is truly one of my homes! But before the memory of Ushuaia fades let me fill you in on the remaining hours at the end of the earth.
Waiting to board the Massimo to the Beagle Channel I see the Brits from Saturday. We are assigned different catamarans and there is a moment of sadness that we will not be traveling together. It is as if I am waving goodbye to dear friends of years. I am also observing the herd mentality. People hurry to line up and wait as if the position in line will secure something not available to those further back in line. I, on the other hand, prefer to just wait it out, board last, and take what remains. It all seems the same to me with far less hassle.
The Beagle Channel connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans is 180 kilometers long, 30-183 meters deep, and from 1 kilometer to 18 kilometers in width. The waters of the Channel are both Argentine and Chilean. Though Argentine vessels can sail through Chilean waters they are not permitted to stop. This would be considered illegal entry. We navigated to La Isla de Los Lobos and watched the cormorants mingling with the sea lions. Passing the light house at the furthest point of the world we made our way to Isla Martillo to see those cute penguins you just met.
The life span of these penguins is 10-11 years and during this time they make their home here in the summer and then head north toward Brazil in the winter looking for warmer waters. If you have seen "The March of the Penguins" you know the habits of these interesting creatures. The most interesting is their mating habits. They are monogomous, at least for the season. There are more females than males so the competition is steep. But once she has her catch he is hers and he is devoted. If they procduce an egg as soon as the time is right the responsibility of sitting on the egg goes to the male. There is a very intricate dance to facilitate this transfer. She then goes off to find food and is gone for several months. What an interesting contrast!
Waiting to board the Massimo to the Beagle Channel I see the Brits from Saturday. We are assigned different catamarans and there is a moment of sadness that we will not be traveling together. It is as if I am waving goodbye to dear friends of years. I am also observing the herd mentality. People hurry to line up and wait as if the position in line will secure something not available to those further back in line. I, on the other hand, prefer to just wait it out, board last, and take what remains. It all seems the same to me with far less hassle.
The Beagle Channel connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans is 180 kilometers long, 30-183 meters deep, and from 1 kilometer to 18 kilometers in width. The waters of the Channel are both Argentine and Chilean. Though Argentine vessels can sail through Chilean waters they are not permitted to stop. This would be considered illegal entry. We navigated to La Isla de Los Lobos and watched the cormorants mingling with the sea lions. Passing the light house at the furthest point of the world we made our way to Isla Martillo to see those cute penguins you just met.
The life span of these penguins is 10-11 years and during this time they make their home here in the summer and then head north toward Brazil in the winter looking for warmer waters. If you have seen "The March of the Penguins" you know the habits of these interesting creatures. The most interesting is their mating habits. They are monogomous, at least for the season. There are more females than males so the competition is steep. But once she has her catch he is hers and he is devoted. If they procduce an egg as soon as the time is right the responsibility of sitting on the egg goes to the male. There is a very intricate dance to facilitate this transfer. She then goes off to find food and is gone for several months. What an interesting contrast!
Monday, February 18, 2008
Sunday, February 17, 2008
El ritmo...
There is a rythym of being on the road that sets in for me around day 2. I have my bearings and some sense of the lay of the land. Yesterday was a great introduction because it was strenuous, fun, and filled with interesting people. Sipping wine at the end of the day while listening to music helped integrate the experience. Today I knew I wanted to start slow, take notes over morning coffee, study spanish, and contemplate the day ahead.
When booking today's tour on catamaran through the Beagle Channel I purposely chose later in the afternoon to leave the better part of the day free. I knew at some point I would want to see the glaciers. Though I have seen the glaciers of Patagonia in Chile it seemed important to do the same here in Argentina. With the threat of global warming one does not know how long the glaciers will be with us. Plus the chairlift to Glacier Martial is just 7 kilometers from the center of Ushuaia. This is a perfect distance for me to hike. I was also in need of some alone time.
Sometimes it strikes me as odd that I would crave alone time since after all I am traveling alone. But it is not that easy to be alone when traveling, at least not for me. There is something about not having a partner on the road that makes me more approachable. I appreciate this opportunity to meet people but I also know when it is time to retreat into solitude.
About an hour and a half into my uphill hike to the Glacier I began to wonder if it is truly just 7 kilometers from the center of town. The taxi drivers that pass and eye me as a potential fare began to look more interesting. But the walk was so beautiful and there truly were few people on the road. I did stop to take a picture and conversed with a man who had wandered away from his tour group. Very quickly we established that he is from Wisconsin. When he learned of my origins he introduced me to a reporter from one of the Chicago papers also on this tour that seemed fairly international in makeup. We chatted briefly before I continued on my way, reminded as the group returns to the bus why I choose to travel my way.
Another 15 minutes the entrance to the chairlift appeared. Shortly after spotting this in the distance I arrived, bought my ticket and embarqued. After the attendant and I exchanged a few words of greetings he said "suerte" as he sent me off in the chair. What is this "suerte" business... "good luck". I hadn't been thinking about needing luck but as my feet were dangling from the chair I began the interal dialogue..."I wonder if they check these daily. Have they had previous accidents. Am I carrying identification in case they have to contact next of kin." But I told myself to relax, there are many that make this trip daily.
The view of the town from the glacier was much more stupendous than the glacier itself and by the time I got there I was really more interested in finding a hot chocolate. The highlight was this very rich hot chocolate in the refugio. But an even more exciting find was Maximiliano. He was seated at the table adjacent to mine also sipping hot chocolate. He commented that it was "muy rico" and after a few minutes asked me to take his picture with his camera phone. One comment lead to another and soon the waiter asked him to sit at my table so he could have a free table for another customer.
Maximiliano is an Argentine electircal engineer from Rosario (Che Guevara's birthplace), working for the Navy in Ushuaia. He and his wife moved here a year ago and have subsequently decided that it is a nice place to visit but there is not enough happening for a long term stay. He wanted to practice his english and was quite good. He was pleased because he is self taught so he does not always have the opportunity to test his success. When the time came for me to head back to town for the tour he offered to drive. We hiked down the mountain together instead of riding the chair lift sharing our fear of heights along with conversation about life, the economy, dreams, etc. Mid-way down the mountainside Maximiliano says..."You look just like Elaine (Julia Louis-Dreyfus)". I can't tell you how many times I have heard this same statement. There have been instances in the middle of a therapy session when a client has said out of nowhere, "You remind me so much of Elaine on Seinfeld." How the connection is made has always been a puzzle to me but to have the same link made while hiking down the mountainside from Glacier Martial in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina just about put me over the edge. It gave me a vicarious sense of what it must be like to be a celebrity.
When booking today's tour on catamaran through the Beagle Channel I purposely chose later in the afternoon to leave the better part of the day free. I knew at some point I would want to see the glaciers. Though I have seen the glaciers of Patagonia in Chile it seemed important to do the same here in Argentina. With the threat of global warming one does not know how long the glaciers will be with us. Plus the chairlift to Glacier Martial is just 7 kilometers from the center of Ushuaia. This is a perfect distance for me to hike. I was also in need of some alone time.
Sometimes it strikes me as odd that I would crave alone time since after all I am traveling alone. But it is not that easy to be alone when traveling, at least not for me. There is something about not having a partner on the road that makes me more approachable. I appreciate this opportunity to meet people but I also know when it is time to retreat into solitude.
About an hour and a half into my uphill hike to the Glacier I began to wonder if it is truly just 7 kilometers from the center of town. The taxi drivers that pass and eye me as a potential fare began to look more interesting. But the walk was so beautiful and there truly were few people on the road. I did stop to take a picture and conversed with a man who had wandered away from his tour group. Very quickly we established that he is from Wisconsin. When he learned of my origins he introduced me to a reporter from one of the Chicago papers also on this tour that seemed fairly international in makeup. We chatted briefly before I continued on my way, reminded as the group returns to the bus why I choose to travel my way.
Another 15 minutes the entrance to the chairlift appeared. Shortly after spotting this in the distance I arrived, bought my ticket and embarqued. After the attendant and I exchanged a few words of greetings he said "suerte" as he sent me off in the chair. What is this "suerte" business... "good luck". I hadn't been thinking about needing luck but as my feet were dangling from the chair I began the interal dialogue..."I wonder if they check these daily. Have they had previous accidents. Am I carrying identification in case they have to contact next of kin." But I told myself to relax, there are many that make this trip daily.
The view of the town from the glacier was much more stupendous than the glacier itself and by the time I got there I was really more interested in finding a hot chocolate. The highlight was this very rich hot chocolate in the refugio. But an even more exciting find was Maximiliano. He was seated at the table adjacent to mine also sipping hot chocolate. He commented that it was "muy rico" and after a few minutes asked me to take his picture with his camera phone. One comment lead to another and soon the waiter asked him to sit at my table so he could have a free table for another customer.
Maximiliano is an Argentine electircal engineer from Rosario (Che Guevara's birthplace), working for the Navy in Ushuaia. He and his wife moved here a year ago and have subsequently decided that it is a nice place to visit but there is not enough happening for a long term stay. He wanted to practice his english and was quite good. He was pleased because he is self taught so he does not always have the opportunity to test his success. When the time came for me to head back to town for the tour he offered to drive. We hiked down the mountain together instead of riding the chair lift sharing our fear of heights along with conversation about life, the economy, dreams, etc. Mid-way down the mountainside Maximiliano says..."You look just like Elaine (Julia Louis-Dreyfus)". I can't tell you how many times I have heard this same statement. There have been instances in the middle of a therapy session when a client has said out of nowhere, "You remind me so much of Elaine on Seinfeld." How the connection is made has always been a puzzle to me but to have the same link made while hiking down the mountainside from Glacier Martial in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina just about put me over the edge. It gave me a vicarious sense of what it must be like to be a celebrity.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Day 2----Tierra Del Fuego
Three Brits from London, three Argentines from Buenos Aires, 1 North American from Chicago/St. Joseph together for a day with two Argentine guides from Ushuaia at the end of the earth equals raucous laughter. After 8 hours of hiking and canoeing another more important language transcended any verbal communication----the language of connection.
I generally tell others to trust their gut or more properly referred to as intuition. And I try ever so hard to listen to that inner voice. For the most part I do but there are diversions or detours along the path due to hopes, wishes and dangerous desires.....you know or "viste" as the Argentines would say. But back to the point, yesterday when I arrived in Ushuaia I was on a quest to get my bearings and to check out what the end of the earth had to offer. Since this was a whim and poorly planned I had only a very cursory understanding of what to see. Wandering in town I stopped at a tour agency to check out possibilities. As the conversation progressed at the agency I began to envision big buses and lots of people acting like cattle. My sense was that this was not going to work for me. I tend to hyperventilate in the herd. But I wasn't sure what else might be available on such short notice. I continued wandering and found a small agency with one man at a desk surrounded by beautiful pictures of incredible terrain. We talked. I promised to return and after an hour of reviewing my options over lunch I kept my promise.
I signed up for a full day in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, four hours trekking, lunch, followed by a canoe trip from Lago Roca to the river that leads to the end of the earth. Listening to my inner voice on this one proved right. The group was great, so many stories of people connecting from different lands. The hike was challenging. Lunch was good. And the canoe trip was both incredible as well as hysterical. The insturctions alone were worth the price of the trip.
As I write this I am sitting in Ramos Generales el Almacen sipping wine while listening to a guitarist and flautist. This was another find while roaming the streets after the tour. It is 10:30PM and still light. Just as I get used to this it will be time to head northe to Buenos Aires.
I generally tell others to trust their gut or more properly referred to as intuition. And I try ever so hard to listen to that inner voice. For the most part I do but there are diversions or detours along the path due to hopes, wishes and dangerous desires.....you know or "viste" as the Argentines would say. But back to the point, yesterday when I arrived in Ushuaia I was on a quest to get my bearings and to check out what the end of the earth had to offer. Since this was a whim and poorly planned I had only a very cursory understanding of what to see. Wandering in town I stopped at a tour agency to check out possibilities. As the conversation progressed at the agency I began to envision big buses and lots of people acting like cattle. My sense was that this was not going to work for me. I tend to hyperventilate in the herd. But I wasn't sure what else might be available on such short notice. I continued wandering and found a small agency with one man at a desk surrounded by beautiful pictures of incredible terrain. We talked. I promised to return and after an hour of reviewing my options over lunch I kept my promise.
I signed up for a full day in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, four hours trekking, lunch, followed by a canoe trip from Lago Roca to the river that leads to the end of the earth. Listening to my inner voice on this one proved right. The group was great, so many stories of people connecting from different lands. The hike was challenging. Lunch was good. And the canoe trip was both incredible as well as hysterical. The insturctions alone were worth the price of the trip.
As I write this I am sitting in Ramos Generales el Almacen sipping wine while listening to a guitarist and flautist. This was another find while roaming the streets after the tour. It is 10:30PM and still light. Just as I get used to this it will be time to head northe to Buenos Aires.
Good morning....Ushuaia!
Last night at 11, though cloudy, it was just then dusk. I forgot that at the ends of the earth the days are either very long or very short, moreso than in my neck of the woods, depending on the season. In Antartica this time of year the sun sets sometime around 11 and rises around 5. So I made sure the drapes were secured. If the sun was shining this morning I wanted to decide when I would see the light of day. Today it is a full day hike in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego and in canoe on Lago Roca. Tomorrow it will be the Canal Beagle, los penguinos y los lobos. My time is short at this end of the earth so I am focused on the highlights of the terrain and the history.
Friday, February 15, 2008
Travel Tales Enroute to Tierra Del Fuego....
Check In at Aerolineas Argentina....."May I carry this bag on board? I have some liquids." "Do you have a lot of liquids?" "No" "What are they?" "Oh shampoo, other hair products, medicine, that's all." "No problem." I am traveling light so I hoist my carry on over my shoulder along with my computer bag and wonder what will happen when I go through security.
The line is long but seems to be moving fairly quickly. I see that there are two agents, one male and one female, whom I think are prepared to check anyone who sets off the scanner. I put my bag with the liquids and my bag with the laptop on the conveyor belt. I do not remove my computer from the bag. I do not take off my shoes. I do not remove my belt or any of the metal jewelry. I do not strip to the bare minimum like I would stateside. I walk through the screening machine, set off the alarm, and the agent with the gun on his hip smiles while telling me to pass. Go figure!
Several months ago I flew from Zagreb and changed planes in Frankfort. Usually once cleared through security from the departing city there is no further security check while in transit. Not so in Frankfort where there were two. One which had a single conveyor belt for a herd of people and two agents "wanding" everyone since there was no body scanner. The contrast was striking.
The Plane to Ushuaia.....Once on board I notice that the other travelers are mostly European. Yes, there are a few Argentines but I hear the language of the Brits, Germans, and French much more than Spanish. While in line for the bathroom I smile at the woman behind me. She smiles and asks in French if there is paper in the bathroom. I continue smiling but establish that if we are going to converse it will have to be in English or Spanish. She then says "is paper?" in English and "wash hands?" I continue to smile as I respond "yes" to both questions. The truth be known I am thinking "You've got to be kidding. You think the Argentines don't use toilet paper or wash their hands? This is an airplane!"
Both instances made me chuckle.....
The line is long but seems to be moving fairly quickly. I see that there are two agents, one male and one female, whom I think are prepared to check anyone who sets off the scanner. I put my bag with the liquids and my bag with the laptop on the conveyor belt. I do not remove my computer from the bag. I do not take off my shoes. I do not remove my belt or any of the metal jewelry. I do not strip to the bare minimum like I would stateside. I walk through the screening machine, set off the alarm, and the agent with the gun on his hip smiles while telling me to pass. Go figure!
Several months ago I flew from Zagreb and changed planes in Frankfort. Usually once cleared through security from the departing city there is no further security check while in transit. Not so in Frankfort where there were two. One which had a single conveyor belt for a herd of people and two agents "wanding" everyone since there was no body scanner. The contrast was striking.
The Plane to Ushuaia.....Once on board I notice that the other travelers are mostly European. Yes, there are a few Argentines but I hear the language of the Brits, Germans, and French much more than Spanish. While in line for the bathroom I smile at the woman behind me. She smiles and asks in French if there is paper in the bathroom. I continue smiling but establish that if we are going to converse it will have to be in English or Spanish. She then says "is paper?" in English and "wash hands?" I continue to smile as I respond "yes" to both questions. The truth be known I am thinking "You've got to be kidding. You think the Argentines don't use toilet paper or wash their hands? This is an airplane!"
Both instances made me chuckle.....
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Creating Community....
I am amazed how quickly one becomes a regular in the community. They don't ask to see my membership card when I show up at the gym. I see many of the same faces as last year and we acknowledge each other though we may not speak. And when leaving this morning I see my friend who moved here a year ago from Chicago. They know how I like my capuccino at Nucha. When I walked into Piola, my favorite pizza place, late last night they acted as if I had never been gone and knew the routine. In fact the person with me asked if I went there often. I wave at the owner of the internet cafe, though I don't go there anymore, as if we are friends. The maid inquires about my son and whether or not he will be visiting this year. Is he still with his novia (girlfriend), she asks. We chat as if it was just the other day we caught up on each other's lives. This is the phenomena I noticed these past several months in Chicago as well. Though I like the annonymity of the big city it is so evident how quickly that fades as we follow our routine and begin to form relationship with those on the same path.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Mixing it up... Belgrano, Montserrat, y Las Canitas
So the city has become a familiar haunt. The comfort is a good thing but my pesonality seems to prefer mixing it up. After 10 days on this familiar stomping grounds it was time to stretch. Learning about the syrahs of Argentina was a good place to start on Friday night in Belgrano. A relatively new barrrio for my frequent visits so the sites were different and certainly a class on the technicalities of wine in spanish was a challenge. I learned a bit more about the similarities of the terrain and climate with the Rhone area of France plus I tasted a few new wines to add to my list. Plus hanging out in Las Canitas after class the energy was palpable with the new possible restaurants alluring. The best parts of the weekend were the immersion in the culture.... La Opera Pampa at the Rural explained through dance, song and beautiful choreographic presentation the history in the countryside of Argentina. The war amonst the peoples of the land as well as the invasion of the Spanish was significant. The acrobatics on horseback as well as the dance was impressive. It took me back to my experiences in Salta with the gauchos. I love the music and the dance. The reality is that I love to be in it more than watch it so finding a local place to salsa was the highlight. This was the real stuff....not salsa but son.... taught by un cubano living in Argentina. Though I have taken lessons and certainly danced the dance this was intoxicating. So I am hooked, planning my schedule around dance classes and into exploring the other parts of this city undiscovered.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
"No hay moneda," he says.
"No tenes moneda" (You don't have change), I say. This is the second kiosk where I have tried to buy a small piece of chocolate solely for the purpose of receiving change for the "colectivo" (bus). "Donde puedo encontrar moneda?" (Where can I find change?) "No se." (I don't know.) "Pero necesito moneda en colectivo, no?" (But I need change on the bus, don't I?) "Si, necesitas moneda." (Yes, you need change.) "Entonces, que debo hacer?" (Then what do I do?) "Tenes que ir al banco." (You have to go to the bank.) Mind you, it is 7:00PM Friday and I am on my way to a class on the syrahs of Argentina at the wine school in Belgrano. I have an hour to get there but even if I had more time, though the Argentine schedule is different, there are no banks open at this hour on Friday. "Pero el banco no esta abierto ahora" (But the bank is not open now,) I say. "Si, es una locura. Pero no hay moneda," he says. (Yes, it is madness. But there is no change.) So I don't buy the chocolate and proceed north in the hopes of finding change. I am not desperate because I can always hail a taxi but I prefer to go in colectivo. A few blocks past the last kiosk I spy a small mercado and eye the cash register drawer before perusing the chocolate. Hay moneda. I leave the mercado with change and a power bar. It is just a short walk to the first stop for the colectivo.
I hope to update you at a later date on the wine class. Briefly, for over 2 1/2 hours I sampled 8 syrahs accompanied by a dish of rice and veggies with a side of bread. I listened to the expert along with 10 other students, all Argentine. These scenarios are humbling. In this instance both my fluency in the language and knowledge of wine were tested!
I hope to update you at a later date on the wine class. Briefly, for over 2 1/2 hours I sampled 8 syrahs accompanied by a dish of rice and veggies with a side of bread. I listened to the expert along with 10 other students, all Argentine. These scenarios are humbling. In this instance both my fluency in the language and knowledge of wine were tested!
Friday, February 8, 2008
Un dia tipico....
"So what does a typical day in Buenos Aires look like for you?" he asks. So here you have the answer to that question. Sometime around 8:00AM I come to consciousness and make my way to the coffee pot. Not until the coffee is brewing do I take care of the routine tasks. Once I can smell that enticing aroma it is with great enthusiasm that I pour that first cup. Truly I love this time of the day. With coffee and granola or a medialuna I read, write, or study spanish. Meanwhile CNN in Spanish plays in the background. This seems to have helped with my Spanish because I understand more and more. Most days by 9:00-9:30 I am out of the apartment and off to the gym for lifting, spinning or both. Three days out of the week that routine is followed by Spanish class. The other two I am making phone calls to clients in the U.S. It is the evening time that varies. For sure I drink a glass of wine, often at an outdoor resaturant, where I can take in the warmth. Maybe I dine with a friend, take in a movie, or see a show. There are nights with special events such as the Super Tuesday Party, Salsa classes at my latest discovery, or tonight it is a wine class on the syrahs of Argentina. When I write this it is clear to me that I am who I am whereever I go. Here my life is in Spanish but my routine is not much different than when in the states. The day starts and ends a bit later but my interests and routine are similar.... friends, good food, movies, the theater, exercise, dance, politics, adventure and wine!
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
El Super Martes!
In Club Tazz in Palermo last night the energy was high and for the most part the language was English. My name tag read "Maureen-Michigan". You got it. I was at the Super Tuesday Party of Buenos Aires for ExPats and for the most part the group attending were U.S. citizens...U.S. citizens with particular political leanings. The sign next to the huge screen airing the results and commentary from CNN or MSNBC read "Democrats Abroad". This morning on CNN en espanol the major news is the results of Super Tuesday (Los resultados de Super Martes no defino el candidato para el candidato del partido democrata...Problamente McCain sea el candidato republicano.) Basically the message is that the race is close for the democrats and continues while it is fairly clear that McCain will be the republican nomination. Now I am listening to Huckabee...are you kidding me? The most important and impressive part of it all is how much attention is focused on this election. Truly, I would think I was in Chicago or St. Joe watching the news if it wasn't for the fact that it is in Spanish!
Sunday, February 3, 2008
The Super Bowl in Spanish!!!
So ok, you've heard this before. In fact, I just received an email with the question "Are you watching the Super Bowl in Spanish again?" The truth be known the answer is yes! It is funny how they pronounce "Manning"! The score is 7-3, Patriots leading, the end of the second quarter..."pocos minutos queda"! I did have an opportunity to go to a Super Bowl Party (for sure a bunch of expats because the Argentines are watching soccer) but opted to go with an Argentine friend to see "Amor en los Tiempos de Colera" with Javier Bardem! I didn't debate this decision for long. Though I am now enaged in the Super Bowl, I think that when south of the border I should see it from the Argentine perspective. I must add it is on Fox news. Dice sorprendiendo.... he says there is a surprise.... excuse me a moment while I check. Those of you who know me well know that it really doesn't matter if I watch this with Spanish backdrop or English. You remember that I am the woman who bought Football for Dummies when Shaun was tight end ... or was it wing back... See where I need help. I am not proud. That is why I chose Javier Bardem.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
"Tanto Tiempo", ella dijo.
"So much time", she said. That was the woman who works at the lavanderia by my apartment. So some of them do notice with my coming and going that it has been awhile. But for me just three days since my feet touched Argentine soil it is as if I never left. It has become such familiar territory for me that I make myself vary my route to the gym, to yoga, to classes and think about other ways to stretch. There are a few of my favorite haunts that are absolute musts but discovering new places to sip capuccino or dine is what excites me. And contemplating other ways to immerse myself intrigues me. Last night over wine and appetizers a friend talked about the reopening ot the world renound Teatro Colon after two years of renovation work. "It will be a black tie gala affair and I want to attend", he said. I pulled out my press pass with "Global Woman", a new magazine that has included me on their list of writers. "I haven't used this yet, what a great way to christen it." We agreed that is would be worth a trip back in the fall.
In the taxi on the way home the conversation with the driver was as if I were a local. He knew otherwise as he queried me about Chicago. When I said good-bye he welcomed me to his country once again and said, "espero que disfrutes y tenga mucho sexo". Translated he wished me a good time and lots of sex. I can't recall a cab driver ever extending that wish in Chicago. So we are back to the basic differences in culture and perspctive on cleavage!
In the taxi on the way home the conversation with the driver was as if I were a local. He knew otherwise as he queried me about Chicago. When I said good-bye he welcomed me to his country once again and said, "espero que disfrutes y tenga mucho sexo". Translated he wished me a good time and lots of sex. I can't recall a cab driver ever extending that wish in Chicago. So we are back to the basic differences in culture and perspctive on cleavage!
Friday, February 1, 2008
Bienvenida a Buenos Aires!
How is it that blogspot knows where I am? It never ceases to amaze me when I log on in Argentina my home page and directions are in Spanish with no instructions from me to change the language. What a world!
Barely 48 hours since my feet touched Argentine soil I am into my routine. Gym membership in hand I made my way to spinning class giving the expected kiss to instructors I hadn't seen for months. The new equipment looked good but otherwise all was as I had remembered. Certainly I saw most of the same trainers and many participants with familiar faces. Enroute I passed my favorite fish market and received a big smile from my friend the vendor. Sometimes I wonder if these neighbors of mine know how long I have been gone or if they think that perhaps I just haven't passed their way of late. Time just flies.
There are certain necessities when I arrive. Of course my routine includes a visit to American Express to change money and then the membership to the gym heads the list. Once these two important tasks have been accomplished a visit to Bonafide for un cuarto kilo de cafe molido fino and a trip to my local supermercado to stock up for the week are essential. But most important are the text messages to some of the Argentine and Expat friends to see if we can connect. Though I landed with an open calendar, as I wanted, the dates are filling with dinners and gatherings of those in my southern community.
My geographic boundaries of home are broad. This was confirmed when last night I watched the debate between Barak and Hillary with voice over in Spanish. It was a challenge to follow. For sure the Argentines are looking North and wondering with those in the states what will evolve! I was assured last night at dinner with friends that noone in Argentina pays much attention to Hillary's cleavage since it is nothing compared to Christina's, the president here, who flaunts hers regularly!
Stay tuned!
Barely 48 hours since my feet touched Argentine soil I am into my routine. Gym membership in hand I made my way to spinning class giving the expected kiss to instructors I hadn't seen for months. The new equipment looked good but otherwise all was as I had remembered. Certainly I saw most of the same trainers and many participants with familiar faces. Enroute I passed my favorite fish market and received a big smile from my friend the vendor. Sometimes I wonder if these neighbors of mine know how long I have been gone or if they think that perhaps I just haven't passed their way of late. Time just flies.
There are certain necessities when I arrive. Of course my routine includes a visit to American Express to change money and then the membership to the gym heads the list. Once these two important tasks have been accomplished a visit to Bonafide for un cuarto kilo de cafe molido fino and a trip to my local supermercado to stock up for the week are essential. But most important are the text messages to some of the Argentine and Expat friends to see if we can connect. Though I landed with an open calendar, as I wanted, the dates are filling with dinners and gatherings of those in my southern community.
My geographic boundaries of home are broad. This was confirmed when last night I watched the debate between Barak and Hillary with voice over in Spanish. It was a challenge to follow. For sure the Argentines are looking North and wondering with those in the states what will evolve! I was assured last night at dinner with friends that noone in Argentina pays much attention to Hillary's cleavage since it is nothing compared to Christina's, the president here, who flaunts hers regularly!
Stay tuned!
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Sleeping Around in the City!
Aside from the entry about travels to Europe I haven't had much to say. Probably because my focus was on sleeping around and I was hesitant to tell you. But it is not what you think! What a shame! Returning from Buenos Aires last June I knew city life was essential but I also knew that the expat life was not for me. Though I know Buenos Aires and Argentina will be a regular stop in my travels I will not relocate there. It was clear the time had come to head back to the city I never stopped calling home. Yes, my roots are in Chicago, the windy city, and the energy of my home was calling. But how to pull this off, yet maintain the many important anchors in St. Joseph, Michigan, was a challenge. And an even bigger challenge was deciding where to land in this city that offered a myriad of options. It came to me that the best way to decide was not decide until I had "slept around".
In the midst of transition it is back to the basics. Maslow's hierarchy loomed large in my mind. I was on the bottom rung seeking shelter. My needs were very specific: short-term, furnished accommodations, in the heart of downtown Chicago, at an affordable price. I thought about placing an ad, you know, "desperately seeking shelter", but the thought of that lacked appeal. Friends steered me toward Craig's List with reassurance that all needs could be met by Craig.
Nothing is quite as easy as it sounds so it was not surprising when the first visit to Craig's list offered nothing but rentals out of the range of affordability. Most were geared toward corporate rentals with the company footing the bill. When one did catch my eye in the gold coast area I was on it. Entering the lobby my intuition said it was not the place. It had that look and smell like it had been around a long time with not much attention paid to sprucing it up. I queried a man leaving the lobby about the place. "So do you live here?" I asked. "Well, yes" he said, "I sold a condo near-by a couple of years ago and decided to just rent." "And how do you like it", I asked. "Well I'm a truck driver and am on the road most of the month so it works for me. But you can see, the building is old." Mind you, he didn't say vintage, quaint or historic. He said OLD! There you have it! And yes, after seeing the unit, that would be the best adjective to describe the place.
Just as I was beginning to think my dream was lofty and not to be reached, Dan posted his place. Looked good, the price was right, and my timing was on it When sitting at Starbuck's on Michigan Avenue we connected via phone and made the plan for the tour. This cute young man with a baseball cap opened the door to his place on Wacker Drive viewing Navy Pier. What more could I want, except maybe he could stick around instead of just sublet. Now if he came with the apartment I could truly say I was "sleeping around". No such luck.... off to Boston the place was mine for three months. The deal was done with a one paragraph letter of agreement, cash and a set of keys. It was an "if you build it they will come" sort of thing, but it began my city tour. Six months later I have claimed several neighborhoods in the city as mine....the top of the Magnificent Mile, the Loop, Bucktown, the Gold Coast and Lincoln Park. Now I am heading back to Buenos Aires with plans to check out Streeterville on my return.
Stay tuned for more on "Sleeping Around in the City"......
In the midst of transition it is back to the basics. Maslow's hierarchy loomed large in my mind. I was on the bottom rung seeking shelter. My needs were very specific: short-term, furnished accommodations, in the heart of downtown Chicago, at an affordable price. I thought about placing an ad, you know, "desperately seeking shelter", but the thought of that lacked appeal. Friends steered me toward Craig's List with reassurance that all needs could be met by Craig.
Nothing is quite as easy as it sounds so it was not surprising when the first visit to Craig's list offered nothing but rentals out of the range of affordability. Most were geared toward corporate rentals with the company footing the bill. When one did catch my eye in the gold coast area I was on it. Entering the lobby my intuition said it was not the place. It had that look and smell like it had been around a long time with not much attention paid to sprucing it up. I queried a man leaving the lobby about the place. "So do you live here?" I asked. "Well, yes" he said, "I sold a condo near-by a couple of years ago and decided to just rent." "And how do you like it", I asked. "Well I'm a truck driver and am on the road most of the month so it works for me. But you can see, the building is old." Mind you, he didn't say vintage, quaint or historic. He said OLD! There you have it! And yes, after seeing the unit, that would be the best adjective to describe the place.
Just as I was beginning to think my dream was lofty and not to be reached, Dan posted his place. Looked good, the price was right, and my timing was on it When sitting at Starbuck's on Michigan Avenue we connected via phone and made the plan for the tour. This cute young man with a baseball cap opened the door to his place on Wacker Drive viewing Navy Pier. What more could I want, except maybe he could stick around instead of just sublet. Now if he came with the apartment I could truly say I was "sleeping around". No such luck.... off to Boston the place was mine for three months. The deal was done with a one paragraph letter of agreement, cash and a set of keys. It was an "if you build it they will come" sort of thing, but it began my city tour. Six months later I have claimed several neighborhoods in the city as mine....the top of the Magnificent Mile, the Loop, Bucktown, the Gold Coast and Lincoln Park. Now I am heading back to Buenos Aires with plans to check out Streeterville on my return.
Stay tuned for more on "Sleeping Around in the City"......
Friday, January 4, 2008
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Though I am still in Chicago my vision is looking south. When I will head to Argentina remains a mystery but it will happen before February 23rd for sure. I am on to lead a retreat at that time and will be meeting travelers again at EZE.
This entry will be short. The intent is first to wish you the best in the new year. Second, to tell you to check out Transitions Abroad January/February issue. This magazine has a 30 year history and began with the purpose of fostering responsible travel. Articles and authors spanned the globe and brought a message to those who wanted to see the world immersing oneself and not just be a tourist in a foreign land. This issue is the last of an era. Although it will continue to provide information through its website a print copy of information will no longer be available. On the last page of the final edition you will find my article. It is an honor to be part of this final hurrah!
This entry will be short. The intent is first to wish you the best in the new year. Second, to tell you to check out Transitions Abroad January/February issue. This magazine has a 30 year history and began with the purpose of fostering responsible travel. Articles and authors spanned the globe and brought a message to those who wanted to see the world immersing oneself and not just be a tourist in a foreign land. This issue is the last of an era. Although it will continue to provide information through its website a print copy of information will no longer be available. On the last page of the final edition you will find my article. It is an honor to be part of this final hurrah!
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